Am Elften Elften Elften um Elf Uhr Elf!

Craving some rogale świętomarcińskie right now. Happy Dni Świętomarcińskie (Poznań), Veteran's Day (U.S.), Remembrance Day (Canada), Karneval (Germany- Koelle Alaaf!), Super Singles Day (China), Narodowe Święto Niepodległości (Poland), and 11/11/11. What a day.

Poland released this interesting video last year to mark their Independence Day and show an animated history of the nation. It would be interesting to analyze this video in terms of what historical events are depicted and how they are portrayed, thus given insights into the national psyche (or at least, the PR that the Polish government wants to present to the world). Note the stress on the glorious medieval and Renaissance years, the darkness of the 200 years of occupation, and the glorious EU banner to mark a happy ending. Still, a great summary of the national story, and with accurate depictions of many of the great Polish cities.

'Tis the Season

I loved this article on Weihnachtsmärkte in Germany. Such Christmas markets can be found across Germany, but the Berlin markets have especially specified and diversified. The NYT offers examples of a market for kids, a market for GLBT, and a market for environmentalists.

Hurry, because these markets traditionally close by Dec. 24!


Can't get to Deutschland or Österreich this year? A number of U.S. cities have adapted the tradition and added their own Christkindlmärkte.

Frohe Weihnachten und ein gutes Neues Jahr!

Vienna's Ball Season

Well, it's been a while since I posted and officially a year since I left for Vienna, Austria. However, my reminiscences and reflections on the city won't be abating any time soon, and here's a long post to make up for it.

Christmas is over, the New Year is in full swing, and the Balls have begun in Vienna. Ball Season officially begins each year with the Kaiserball on Dec 31 and continues through the Fasching season until Ash Wednesday. Fasching, known elsewhere as Carnival, is a period of celebration and indulgence before the somber time of Lent. The Carnival celebrations in many cities culminate with the days just before Ash Wednesday, such as Rosenmontag in Köln and Mardi Gras/Fat Tuesday in New Orleans and the Caribbean. Vienna's celebrations stretch through the months of January and February, hosting hundreds of balls, each unique with their special name, dress code, invitees, etc.

The tradition of Ball Season is usually traced back to Austria's beloved Empress Maria Theresa. Famous for her reforms, she observed the wild debauchery during Fasching and resolved that her imperial city would not participate in such vulgarity. She banned the wearing of masks in the streets of Vienna, though she permitted the upper class to have masked parties in their homes. Her son Josef II later extended this privilege to the masses, and masked balls became a popular yearly tradition. This article presents a bit more of a detailed history of the progression to the modern balls (who knew that the waltz was once considered obscene?). Today, very few balls are actually masked, and the waltz is a staple component.

The balls range from elegant celebrations for students and universities to extravagant and exclusive (and expensive!) festivities hosted by specific groups. Many of the balls are open to anyone, provided that you can afford the cost of the ticket (ranging from 20€ to 1000€). Most are held in the Hofburg (the Habsburg's winter palace in the first district), but others are held in the Rathaus or Musikverein. There's the Flower Ball, the Ball of Army Officers, the Pharmacists' Ball, the Russian Ball, and even the Kaffeesiederball (Ball of the Viennese Coffee House Owners). The Rudolfina-Redoute is a masked ball, held on the last Monday of Fasching, whereas dancers attend the Hunter's Ball in Austrian ethnic costume, dirndls and lederhosen galore. The Lawyers' Ball is respected as one of the oldest, always held on the last Saturday, and the Opera Ball (on the last Thursday of Fasching) as one of the most extravagant (complete with televised red carpet gown-critique akin to the Oscars). Here's a full List of the 2009 Balls (pdf), with date, cost, and location.


Nope, there are no mirrors in this room. Those are all chandeliers.

I attended the 2008 Ball der Technik, aka the "TU-Ball", in the Hofburg Palace on the same night as the famous Opernball. (We passed a number of other gowns on the subway, many of whom were headed to Karlsplatz, the central subway stop in front of the Opera). Though the ball was officially sponsored by the Technical University, there were guests of all ages, not necessarily with any direct association to the university. There were at least 50 people from my program, with more than a thousand present over all--all ages, all dancing. I've never seen anything like it.

The main ballroom was mostly devoted to the waltz, with a full orchestra playing much of the night (a small jazz band would relieve them every few hours and play foxtrots and boogie woogies instead). Boothed tables on elevated platforms lined the ballroom's walls for the honored guests. Everyone else had to find their tables in a maze of rooms around the main ballroom--the Habsburgs built a very extensive chain of rooms; they just keep going and going, and there is always another room of tables somewhere ahead. Additionally, there are smaller ballrooms and other dance venues throughout this maze. A swing band was playing in what I like to call the Chandelier Room (above), another jazz band played in an adjoining room further in the maze, and across from the coatroom downstairs there was even a modernized room made to look like a club playing techno and hip hop.

However, before any dancing started in any room, first the debutantes were given the floor. This is an Austrian tradition that is upheld at any ball that you might attend. Young women and men, attending their first ball, prepare for this moment months in advance as they take dance lessons at any number of ballroom schools throughout Wien. On the night of their ball, they don long white gowns and gloves or black tuxedos and enter the ballroom in a polonaise procession. The first dance, a waltz, belongs to these young people. However, the main ballroom is usually packed with onlookers trying to catch a glimpse of this elaborate ceremony, so arrive early and pick a good spot or you will be unable to see or even get into the room--there are thousands of people attending, remember? The picture below, taken shortly after the debutante's waltz, is borrowed from a friend of mine who was able to get into the main ballroom; note all the lovely white gowns. After the debutantes have waltz (and often are congratulated with applause), the dance master calls "Alles Walzer!" and the dance floors are open to everyone. (It was only after this point that I was actually able to make it inside the main ballroom, due to dispersing crowds).



Dancing continues throughout the night, without noticeable pause. Generally, the etiquette is that the gentlemen are expected to ask the ladies to dance, and ladies should not casually decline. However, sometimes an hour is designated "Ladies' Choice", during which the roles are reversed; for this hour, only the women can ask the men for a dance, and the men (if they are indeed gentlemen) should accept. At the TU-Ball, I believe that this hour began at 1am. In order to accommodate a Line of Dance, slower dancers should always stay to the center of the ballroom, while faster couples dance the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction. Here are some more guidelines for Ball Etiquette.

However, my favorite part of the night was at midnight. With the stroke of 12, the regular dancing stopped and all the guests flooded into the Grand Ballroom for the quadrille. (This time I had advance notice, so I was able to secure a good spot to watch). Dancers line up beside one another, alternating male-female. Each dancer faces his/her partner (who is in the opposite line) with about six feet of space between them. These long rows of dancers stretch from one end of the ballroom to the other.

The orchestra strikes up the chords to the Fledermaus Quadrille, an energetic six-movement piece from Johann Strauss' operetta Die Fledermaus (though usually not all the movements are performed). The steps are complicated, so the Dance Master calls out each step from the stage and demonstrates, such as spinning once with the person to your right, to your left, with your partner across from you, etc. At certain points, couples at the end of the rows dance a galloping dash through the tunnel-like passage between the rows of dancers; but these rows are so long that the dash to the other end takes dancers to the far side of the huge room! During a later movement, I recall some lyrics that everyone shouted in time, but I was unable to make out what was said. This traditional midnight quadrille, a cornerstone of any Viennese ball, is often a situation of laughter, chaos, and just sheer fun.

Immediately after the quadrille, the Galop begins. This country dance also dates to the 19th century. Dancers grab their partners and chassé wildly in a counter-clockwise direction around the room. The dance master will call "Reverse!" and the entire room must quickly change direction. This patterns continues a few times, and then "Tunnel!" is called. Couples form long rows again, and couples on the end (by the orchestra) galop through quickly, most likely laughing the whole time.


Dance Master and helpers demonstrating the quadrille

Shortly after the midnight's break, the orchestra resumed it's waltzes with the most famous of all--Strauss' "Blue Danube". The floor was so crowded for this song that even those that did know how to waltz could not properly move. Yet still, it was an amazing experience--waltzing to "The Blue Danube" in Vienna at an authentic Viennese Ball! It made all the stubbed toes worth it.

Viennese balls do not end until almost dawn; however, a number of the guests left shortly after "The Blue Danube". Sadly, I was among them, due to the need to sleep before an exam the next morning. On the way out, as per tradition, all the ladies were given a Damenspende. This gift for the ladies is like a party favor. It might be a simple piece of jewelry, a waltzing CD, or something similarly small and simple; the TU-ball gifted a baked good, some sort of chocolate gingerbread cake in nice wrappings.

I missed out on only one Viennese Ball tradition (that I am aware of)--the Katerfrühstück, the junk food breakfast afterwards. Most young people dance the night away until the ball ends around 5am; then, walking home in gowns, heels, and tails, they stop for food at the only places that are open--the Imbiss stands. Many of these fast food counters are open 24 hours, providing pizza, kebab, and wurst to any late night (or early morning) wanderer, regardless of their formal garb.

Overall, what an incredible experience. If you are ever in Vienna during January or February, be sure to bring a gown or suit. Here's what the NY Times has to say. I rank the experience of going to an authentic Viennese ball up there with the other grand travel To Do's of Life: See the Taj Mahal. Be in NYC's Times Square for New Years. Go to Rome for Easter. Attend a Ball in Vienna and dance the night away.

Austrian breakfast

As a short break and a writing warm-up before diving in to a paper-writing marathon this afternoon, I bring you a brief cultural update. Today's topic: the typical Austrian breakfast.

Frühstück is of course a very important meal in Austria. (Lunch or the mid-day meal is traditionally the "big" meal of the day, but breakfast is important to start the day off right). While on my own in the apartment, I usually compromise the traditional breakfast and instead grab a quick croissant (often with apricot or chocolate filling!) or enjoy a bowl of Müsli. Almost all of the American-style cereals that are available in stores are very sugary or full of chocolate, so I prefer to avoid those. Müsli is similar to granola, but more loose and usually unbaked. (Heidi at 101 Cookbooks provides a Muesli recipe that sounds delicious as usual).

More traditional breakfast foods include: cold cuts (ham, salami, etc), slices of cheese, various types of bread, butter and jam, soft boiled eggs (always in an egg cup), coffee or tea, juice, etc. If cold cuts are not available, certain types of wurst or sausage might be offered. Yogurt and fruit are also often provided. Besides müsli, cereal is uncommon. American breakfast foods such as French toast and pancakes are basically unheard of (Austrian pancakes, or palatschinken, are essentially crepes). However, let me stress again, bread is very important. Bread and rolls are the crucial element to the Austrian breakfast.

For example, this weekend in Styria I was given a traditional breakfast. As a guest, an array of the following was laid out for me each morning:

• Tea: a huge pot greeted me each morning, and I filled three cups to finish it
  
• Juice: often orange multivitamin
  
• Soft boiled eggs: I learned to crack and peel off the shells in order to scoop out the inside; thus, the egg cup is essential
  
• Bread: this is the bulk of an Austrian breakfast. The vast selection commonly includes the round Semmel roll, the Kipferl (shaped like a croissant), and a square-shaped multigrain roll (name unknown). Slices of bread are also often multigrain or a darker grain... none of this white bread that Americans are used to! Each morning, I ate at least four slices/rolls/pieces, which I spread with...
  
• Jams and Spreads: Butter and three types of homemade jams were offered--an apple-and-something, a berry-peach, and a blood orange-apricot. The flavors were incredible. My hostess offered Nutella and cream cheese, but I would choose the homemade delicacies over a manufactured brand any day.
  

Then again, apart from this extensive list, there's always another type of "traditional" breakfast: a visit to a Viennese coffee house.


An Austrian photographer pictures a typical breadbasket with some common breads I enjoyed as part of a traditional breakfast. The Semmel roll is pictured in the front.

Now that I have sufficiently made myself hungry, I must return to my paper. Bis Später!

Topfenecken

I'm on a roll!  Today I baked some delicious Topfenecken ("Topfen wedges").  This dessert snack is delicious and easy to make! Topfen is a cheese that is a common ingredient in Austrian desserts (Topfen cake is pretty much Austrian cheesecake, and Topfenstrudel is one of the most popular strudels, only after Apfel). Unfortunately, Topfen is pretty much impossible to find in the States, so this recipe will probably be most applicable to my study abroad classmates or anyone else living in Central Europe. Therefore, I will keep all of the measurements metric. For the American readers, I will try to find a reasonable substitute when I get back to the States.

Topfenecken
Recipe from: Heidi, my teaching internship advisor
Ingredients: 250g Flour, 250g Butter, 250g Topfen (20%), salt, marmalade (apricot is best)

Mix the flour and a dash of salt; cut in the butter in small pieces and mix with a fork in order to make the dough flaky. Add the topfen. Mix until soft dough forms. Roll into a ball and chill overnight, or for at least 4 hours.

The next day, roll out the dough (not paper-thin but with only a few millimeters of thickness). Use a knife to cut the dough into squares. Put a small dab of marmalade in the middle of each square. Then pull one corner of the square up and over to the diagonal side, forming a triangular pouch. Pinch the sides closed and place on a baking pan (no grease needing).

Bake until puffed up and golden brown (approx 200 C for 15 minutes, or 350 F for 10 minutes?). Remove and Bon Appetit!



A substitute of gluten-free flour will also make deliciously flaky gluten-free Topfenecken. The gluten-free versions are a little flatter, but still puffy and flaky--apparently characteristics that are hard to find in gluten-free foods. The Topfen works wonders. Köstlich!

Austrian Recipe: Wiener Schnitzel

Time for something new to spice up this blog! This semester, I've collected quite a few recipes, most of which are for authentic Austrian cuisine. Rather than just selfishly keeping them all to myself, I've decided to post them for the world to share.  Enjoy!

Naturally, the first recipe is for one of the most quintessential examples of Viennese cuisine, which is also one of the easiest to prepare: 

Wiener Schnitzel

Materials: salt, flour, egg, breadcrumbs, thin cuts of meat (i.e. pork or turkey; in Austria, a schnitzel merely means a thin cut of meat)**
The amount of egg, flour, and breadcrumbs depends on how many pieces of schnitzel you are making. I usually make about 4 small pieces and have no problem using only one egg.

1. Salt the uncooked meat on both sides. Use a meat tenderizer (wooden hammer-like object) to make the schnitzel even thinner. This will ensure that the meat is cooked through (otherwise the breading might brown faster than the meat cooks).

2. Get three flat bowls and place the flour, egg, and breadcrumbs each in a separate bowl. Put each piece of meat first in the flour. Turn it over until it is coated in flour. Next place it in the egg, and also ensure that it is coated. Finally, put each piece of schnitzel in the breadcrumbs. This is the outer layer. Keep turning it over and ensure that the meat is completely covered in breadcrumbs.

3. Warm oil (or butter) in a skillet on the stove. Once warm, place the coated meat in the skillet. Keep turning the meat over every few minutes until it is golden-brown color.

4. Remove schnitzel from the pan and place on a paper towel. Pat off the excess oil.

5. Season to your taste; lemon is especially good. Consider serving with sauteed potatoes. Enjoy, and tell me how you liked it!


**Traditionally, Wiener Schnitzel is veal, but nowadays most Austrians prefer to use another meat for reasons of cost and ethics. Pork is the most common schnitzel found in restaurants, followed closely by turkey or chicken.

The Politics of Memory

Noticed this article on the NY Times and was intrigued, especially as I will be traveling to Deutschland in less than a week: Germany Confronts Holocaust Legacy Anew

Even in Austria, a country that was not directly responsible and thus got off lightly for the events of WW2, there is at times a  similar sentiment.  There are memorials throughout the city not only to famous generals and Habsburgs, but also to victims of the Holocaust and WW2.  After all, Hitler was Austrian by birth.   

Just some things to think about.

Our center is offering a class on the study of the Central & Eastern European Jews, their struggles and conflicts; I like my course schedule, but I'm disappointed that I won't be able to take this class.

The internet has been very fickle lately (both at the apartment and at the student center), so apologies if I am not in touch.  Additionally, I am finding myself focusing increasingly more attention on the election; it's frustrating though that I'm on a different continent and can't do anything but read blogs and articles.  Also, I'll be traveling on Feb 5, and probably won't have internet access for almost a week after that big day!  :(

Coffee Houses

I think my last post satisfied the quota for pretentiousness. After all, who can resist a short brag to make one's self feel sophisticated? I suppose I did leave out the detail that that café reminded me of a diner, so of course I felt right at home. ^_^

The Viennese love their Kaffeehäuser, and it is no exaggeration to say that you can find a café on every corner (some are just better than others).

A personal photo of one of my favorite haunts--the Café Sperl.

The History (oder "Die Geschichte des Wiener Cafés"):
Coffee was first brought to Vienna by the Turks--the invaders! The second time that they besieged the city, the Turks fled before the Habsburg army and left their bags of coffee beans behind (1684 AD). The Viennese were rather bewildered by what these strange bags were, but after some experimentation, they discovered the wonders of Kaffee. A Polish general is said to have opened the first coffee house in Vienna, and since then it's been tradition. [Wikipedia's more extensive version]

There's coffee houses of all shapes, sizes, and styles. There's the over-priced touristy ones in the first district, there's the artsy and literary houses in the 8th and 9th districts, there's the famous ones that have been around for centuries, and there's the relatively new ones that are off-the-beaten-path and just waiting to be discovered. At all though, you are expected to sit and savor your coffee; while in the US we might only take a few minutes to sit with a cup of coffee or tea (if we sit at all!), the Viennese take their time, engaging in intense conversations or reading the newspaper or writing summer internship essays... for hours on end.

The fin-de-siecle architecture of the more laid-back Café Rüdigerhof

The Menu:
Many will have house specialties, but there are certain things you will find at any good Viennese coffee house:

-Melange- my favorite (rivaled only by the Schokolade-Latte, but not many places seem to have that). This Viennese specialty is like a cappuccino, but much better in my opinion. Here's the link to Wikipedia's explanation; sadly short though. It's also terribly disappointing that the first google search results I got for "Melange" was A) a fictional drug from Dune, and B) a geological formation.

-Brauner (großer or kleiner)- I believe that this is just your standard cup of black coffee, either large or small.

-Einspänner- about 1/3 espresso or coffee and 2/3 foam and whipped cream on top; it's an experience.

-Sachertorte- a chocolate cake (with fudgey icing and a smidge of marmalade), but really good chocolate cake. Invented by the Café Sacher (though its rival, Café Demel, also claims credit), this torte is now famous throughout the city and can be found in almost every coffee house; and for the most part, can only be found in Vienna. A must-try for any visitor.

-Apfelstrudel- another dessert for which Viennese coffee houses are famous--and well-deservedly! This flaky apple pastry is perfect for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, or dessert. Some days nothing pleases me more than a perfectly warmed apple strudel, with a flaky crust and fresh apples, topped with powdered sugar... mmmm!

-Topfenstrudel- Topfen might be best explained by comparing it to American cream cheese. Topfen, or "Quark" cheese, is a crucial ingredient to many Austrian desserts (including Topfenecken). Like Apfelstrudel, Topfenstrudel has many flaky layers of pastry and is filled with this delicious creamy cheese. In addition, it is often drizzled with a tasty vanilla sauce.

A good coffee house will serve a glass of water and a sweet with your coffee. The water serves many purposes; it is refreshing, it cleanses the palate so that you will savor your next sip of coffee more, and it is healthier to accompany coffee with water. [Viennese water is especially delicious, because it comes directly from the Alps-- no chemicals added!] Many coffee houses will serve your cup of coffee and glass of water on a small tray, accompanied by a small chocolate or cookie as the final flourish of taste.

I think that about covers it for now for Kaffeehäuser. Next week: Heurigen!

My photo of a typical melange inside the Sperl