Blackcurrant Juice

Dear Blackcurrant juice, how have I missed you all of these years? How on earth do you not exist in the US?

Well, according to Wikipedia, because of an out-dated ban on growing blackcurrants thanks to the logging industry that states are only just beginning to repeal (NY state repealed it only in 2003). So I suppose it's not surprising that no one in the States realizes the liquid joy and health that they are missing out on.

What is this, you say, it's delicious AND healthy? According again to the all-knowing Wikipedia, blackcurrant juice if STUFFED with essential vitamins and nutrients. 100g of this water of life is packed with 6 vitamins, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, and more! Also, this baby includes not just 100% but 302% of the daily value of Vitamin C! Eat your heart out, OJ. It's very possible that blackcurrant juice was the key medicine in helping several members of our group stave off the Fulbright Flu during orientation, or so claimed AB. (Either that, or it was prior extended exposure to Poland, according to MP's hypothesis).

Also, it mixes very well with banana nectar, which is also widely available here. In an average food store, you can expect to find *at least* one whole wall devoted to simply juices--everything from the traditional apple, orange, and tomato juices to the exotic kiwi, apple mint, and multivitamin (ok, not exotic for Europe) juices. It's rather amazing.

In a nutshell, I'm not sure what I will do when I return to the States and no longer can enjoy this juice regularly. Perhaps I will make my millions by making blackcurrant juice popular in the US, as it well deserves.

Smacznego!

From Poznań's Bread Festival this past weekend. Bakers from across Poland displayed their wares, including some of the most creative decorations on bread that I have ever seen. More pictures to come, I'm sure.



Enjoy your meal!

Restaurant prices

Prior to my arrival in Poland, I was told that it was often more less expensive to go out to eat at a restaurant than it was to buy your own food and cook. I found this hard to believe, but now I'm beginning to see that this is very true.

The other day, I enjoyed a delicious meal on the Rynek, with a beautiful patio view of the marketplace--prime real estate for a restaurant. My meal of a large hearty crepe, a specialty drink, and a large water came to less than $10 USD. This same meal in the States or elsewhere in Europe could have easily cost $25-30 USD. Furthermore, during my grand venture to Ikea yesterday, I paused to have lunch (and enjoy free wifi). In the Polish way, I ordered a dinner-style lunch, complete with soup, a large hot entree, and tea. Granted, Ikea is famously inexpensive, but this rather tasty meal was only 11PLN or about $3.50! When I did the math, I could hardly believe it.

Granted, I've only just begun to cook for myself, so I don't yet have a clear sense of the costs in the supermarket. But I guess I'll have to use this as an excuse to try out all the cafes and restaurants in the area.

Tasty (or not so tasty) Books

For laughs: Bad Eating Makes for Good Reading

Why am I suddenly reminded of those elaborate feasts described in the Redwall novels that I read as a kid? (Always including deeper'n'ever pie, watershrimp, and elderberry wine of course!)

Jeden Montag ist Schnitzeltag!

On your next trip to Vienna, a few restaurants definitely not to miss. These were my favorites in Wien, and arguably the best (for students at least) in the city.

Side Step Tapas Bar, located near the Rathaus. This was my first experience with tapas, but a place that I will never forget. The food is EXCELLENT, and the servers are very friendly and provide great recommendations.

Zanoni & Zanoni, Vienna's most popular gelateria, is located right near Stephansdom. Zanoni & Zanoni offers countless delicious flavors and other dessert options, and it's open year round. Ask about the Blumentüte ("flower cone")-- 3 scoops ("kugeln") for 2€! (Eissalon am Schwedenplatz is another tasty alternative).

The Cafe Beno. I never made it there myself, but this was a favorite haunt of students. Go for Schnitzeltag!

Der Wiener Deewan, a pay-what-you-want Pakistani restaurant near the university. During the last few weeks when I was practically living at the university library, I ate at the Deewan often and saved a pretty penny! Food is served buffet style, and you pay as you leave. The only set cost is for drinks.

The Centimeter, at various locations throughout the city. Everything is served in HUGE portions, measured out according to the metric scale, from a meter-long wurst to a meter-of-beers to beer that is a meter tall. Go with friends and order their signature dish, the Sword. This is a broadsword skewered with turkey schnitzel and pork, with chili, wings, and fries below. Amazing meal, but it will take many hearty appetites to finish it!

The Cafe der Provinz is located near the Rathaus (and not far from a great Italian place whose name escapes me). This cafe is very relaxed and casual, specializing in cuisine from Provence and crêpes. A great option for a full meal, a cup of coffee, or dessert.

Figlmüller claims to have the largest schnitzel in Vienna. Regardless of whether or not this is true, their food is tasty, the restaurant is conveniently located in the first district, and it's well worth a visit. However, this restaurant is very popular with tourist guidebooks, so there may be a wait.

SalmBrau is probably one of the best micro-breweries in Vienna. It is conveniently located very close to the Belvedere.

Zwölf Apostelkeller models itself as a "Stadtheuriger"--that is, an Austrian wine tavern located within the heart of the city rather than on its outskirts. While Zwölf Apostelkeller cannot replace the true heuriger experience, it is a handy option during the winter months when most heurigen are closed.

The Naschmarkt, is a long outdoor market from the edge of the first district (by the Secession building) into the 5th/6th districts. This market has existed for over 200 years by the "river" Wien (from which the city gets its name); it still has great produce but don't be intimidated by the vendors shouting "Bitte schön, bitte sehr!" Be sure to check out the Döner Kebap and the small specialized restaurant-stalls parallel to the produce stalls; sometimes these are rather pricy, but very tasty. Come back to the Naschmarkt Saturday mornings for an extensive antique and flee market. Also, consider the Brunnenmarkt in the 17th district. And there's an excellent 24-hour Turkish bakery not far from there.




And of course, the Heurigen. I'll write up more on that later.

The Rise and Fall of Empires, as told by Coffee

Stumbled across this old treasure from ages ago. In an amusing and surprising essay, Josef Joffe traces the discovery of quality coffee to the downfall of empires. History in a Hazelnut Shell

"There is a reason why the great empires of yore have gone under when confronted with a Melior full of freshly brewed Kenyan Blue. Either you tend to your gold-plated Gaggia or to your F-16. You don't fight with a frappuchino in hand. And as you admire that gentle dollop of steamed milk in your macchiato, what will you think about: the ''halls of Montezuma'' or the beaches of Cozumel?"


P.S. Despite that it might have caused the fall of the Habsburgs, I could use a good Melange right about now.

The Quest for Gelato in America

New feature: Reviews (of restaurants, books, movies, or whatever I feel like talking about).

Today's review is of L'Arte Del Gelato, a gelateria in lower and midtown Manhattan. After spending a semester in Vienna (be sure to check out Zanoni & Zanoni near Stephansdom!) and 10 days in Italy, I have become very picky about my gelato. I'm not a fan of the American imitations that are basically just ice cream and sorbet. With nostalgia and a craving for the European flavors, I am determined to find authentic gelateria... and what better place than in New York City?

Background: For those who are unfamiliar with this artful cuisine, gelato is an Italian dessert that is often mistranslated as ice cream. However, it is creamier and more flavorful than ice cream or sorbet--ice crystals are broken and smoothed when the gelato is made, resulting in more flavor and less watery taste. L'Arte Del Gelato explains the differences in its own words. Like ice cream, gelato is often made from sugar and milk, but with minimal air; some gelato includes eggs and many have fruit. Some of my favorite flavors include Stracciatella (the best chocolate chip you will ever taste), Nutella, Melon, grapefruit, peach, mixed berries, and more. Many good gelaterias also offer experimental flavors, such as apple and rosemary or Twix.

The gelato options might look like this (picture from a 70-flavor gelateria in Firenze):

For more information, see Wikipedia.


The Location: After some googling and reading about the owner's return to Italy and dedication to the old gelato-making traditions, I decided that L'Arte Del Gelato would be my first stop. I tried stopping by the Chelsea Market location during the week, but discovered that that location closes at 7pm on weekdays. Yesterday, I instead tried the location by the NYU campus at 7th Ave and Bleecker street and had success! If I am not mistaken, the Friday and Saturday hours at this location are 11am-1am... not positive about weekdays, but give it a shot! It is right around the corner from the famous Jekyll & Hyde dinner theater, and with lots to do on 7th and on Bleecker (i.e. there was street fair this weekend).

The Details: I stepped in the small shop and examined the options. There were many of the usual suspects--Cioccolato, Nutella, Coconut, Banana, and many more. The workers were very eager to offer samples. I chose a small bowl ($4.50 for two flavors) and settled on my usual of Stracciatella and decided to try passion fruit. In addition to a decent portion of each flavor, the server surprised me by placing a free hefty sample of Frutti di Bosco (mixed berry) on top; she thought I might like this and it would help offset the two extremes of creamy Stracciatella and refreshing fruity passion fruit.

Still, I miss the 3-flavor huge portions of the 2 euro Blümen Tüte (flower cone) at Zanoni & Zanoni.


My Verdict: Not bad! The Stracciatella was excellent! If you have never had gelato before, I strongly recommend heading down and checking it out. The chocolate flakes were just right, and it was richly smooth and flavorful. However, the passion fruit could have been better. Though refreshing and rather flavorful, the consistency reminded me too much of the poor imitations; I had to let it melt a bit before I found it smooth enough.

I'll have to head back in a few weeks and try some alternate flavors--the Nutella looked very tempting! I'm curious as to whether all of the fruit flavors are too stiff, or if it was just a bad day for passion fruit. The mixed berry sample was rather good, but I'll just have to get more to be sure. More gelato to try--what a shame! :)

Bostonian Adventures

Nothing's quite like visiting (one of) the cradles of democracy for Independence Day.

Getting there: I took Lucky Star Bus from NYC to Boston, heading up Thursday afternoon to try to get ahead of the crowds. Despite some mechanical difficulties and delays (the bus broke down along the way), I would use Lucky Star again. The drivers were safe and the service was fine, especially considering the price--$15 each way! And for the record, the ride back was uneventful and we even made it in 4.5 hours despite lots of heavy traffic. Other buses include Fung Wah (the original Chinatown bus), Bolt bus, and Mega bus.

Events for the 4th: Friday we got up early and spent the day on the Esplanade for the free Boston Pops concert. We got in at 10:30 am (after stringent holiday security lines) and camped out with out trash bags, towels, and food to stake our location for the concert (which would start at 8:30pm). It was drizzling in the morning, but thank goodness that cleared up by the mid-afternoon! Many people had brought tents, chairs, coolers, blankets, board games, and more. Kat had made a gallon of pasta salad that we split. Mind you, I'm not usually a pasta salad fan, but this was phenomenal. We basically raided the fridge for anything healthy to put in--zucchini, cherry tomatoes, sprouts, shrimp, diced hard boiled eggs, kale, red and yellow peppers, goat cheese, and so much more! Kat lightly marinated the veggies in balsamic vinegar before adding them to the pasta. It was delicious!

But pasta salad was only the beginning. The Fourth is the day to be in Boston, it seems. Though there are thousands of tourists (the busiest time of the year!), there are also lots of free things. On our way to the T (subway) that morning, we received free granola bars. On a trip to CVS that afternoon, we were handed free containers of organic salad and (right on the next block!) free Pom juice... as much as we wanted! Excellent.

The Pops were quite good. By the time of the concert, the newscasters reported that there were 500,000 people there. Yep, arriving early was necessary. They started with a Bernstein tribute, which included Mambo! from West Side. They switched to some Sondheim, an abridged "Sweet Caroline", and others that I didn't recognize. In honor of the Red Sox's win over the Yankees, the conductor donned a Red Sox jersey and the Pops played baseball tributes, including the Sousa's "The National Game" (with rhythmic whacks with a baseball bat), the theme from The Natural, and a reading of "Casey at the Bat". The first act concluded with the Pops' annual rendition of the Tchaikovsky's "1812 Overture", complete with the cannons (the national guard had been practicing all day and freaking us out) and fireworks. (The main fireworks show was after the Pops finished, of course.) After Intermission, Rascal Flatts took the stage. They opened with "Life is a Highway" and played some of their other big songs, while we gathered our belongings and relocated to find a spot to watch the fireworks. We listened to the end of the concert by radio (one more from Rascal Flatts and then the Pops' "Stars and Stripes Forever") and at 10:35pm, the fireworks began over the Charles River! I've seen many many fireworks shows, but Boston surprised me by breaking out some new tricks. Very beautiful! In addition, they were well-coordinated with some pre-recorded music that everyone played over the radio. It was not only a visual display of art, but almost a dance to the music.


Things to See Around Boston: Saturday we went into Boston to explore the city. I met up with a group of friends from Vienna and enjoyed a mini-reunion in the States. We headed to Faneuil Hall (aka Quincy Market) for lunch. This huge market consists of hundreds of stalls of all different sorts of food. I eventually decided on the obligatory breadbowl of New England Clam Chowder--absolutely delicious! The canned versions or college-food versions can't compare. We walked for a while to the Old North Church, the graveyard, and along the waterfront, watching boats on the harbor and catching up. I was told that I *must* have a Boston cannoli before I left, so we headed to Hanover Street in the North End. We walked past numerous appealing Italian restaurants and eventually found Mike's Pastry. This famous location was ridiculously crowded, so we headed one block further to Modern Pastry. There was also a line out the door here, but much shorter. (Remember, Independence Day is the busiest time of year in Boston!). We waited only about five minutes and soon were order.

Modern Pastry offers the choice of a variety of cannolis. Shells: plain small ($1.50), plain large, large with chocolate-dipped edges ($2.75), or large and completely chocolate-covered shell. Filling: Ricotta, vanilla creme, whipped creme, or chocolate creme. I chose the chocolate-dipped edges and ricotta. The filling was freshly squeezed into the shell right after you order, and it is topped with powders sugar. We took our string-tied boxes from Modern Pastry and sat on a bench a block down to enjoy our prizes; we attracted quite a few stares from hungry passerbys who then headed to the bakery themselves. ^_^

From the North End, we wandered South for a while, exploring the posh Beacon Hill neighborhoods and finally ending up in the Boston Commons. I relived my childhood and found the "Make Way for Ducklings" statues and the swan boats. :) Also, the little kids wading in the Frog Pond were ridiculously cute.

To finish the day, we jumped on the T and headed to Cambridge and Harvard Square for dinner. We stopped at the delicious Pho Pasteur Vietnamese restaurant (the stir-fried noodles were amazing, and be sure to get some tea for only a dollar!) and topped it off with some ice cream from Lizzy's. Charles River Crunch= dark chocolate and toffee crunches. I'm sold. :) With our ice cream cones in hand, we wandered the grounds of Harvard and sat on the steps of some of those grand buildings. Unfortunately, I did not get a frappe, which I have learned is the quintessential (Bostonian) milkshake. I'll use that as an excuse for another trip. :)

Sunday morning we headed out for one last meal before I left. We chose an amazing breakfast joint in Somerville--the Ball Square Cafe. The Moroccan eggs and home fries were delicious (I sampled), but I ordered the french toast special--each slice consisted of two thick pieces of french toasted Challah bread sandwiching goat cheese and pears in the middle. I've never had anything like it, and it was amazing. Highly recommended! Also, the waitress was very friendly, the owner eagerly socialized with the guests, and the main chef (Omar) was very approachable in the back. It felt like a very friendly community oriented place--and the prices weren't bad either! (Rumor is that Omar used to be the main chef next door, but after a fight with the management there, he moved over to Ball Square Cafe and lowered his prices).


Final Thoughts: Boston felt friendly, interesting, and easy-to-maneuver. Also, I hadn't realized how many colleges are in the area, and so close to one another (MIT, Harvard, and Tufts are consecutive stops on the T). The T felt clean and clear; I'll post more on this later. For reference, rides cost $1.80 with the Charlie Card. Sometimes the crowds were overwhelming (read: heading back after the concert and fireworks), but for the most part it was a healthy break from the insanity of NYC. Not to say that Boston isn't crazy in her own way. :)

Austrian breakfast

As a short break and a writing warm-up before diving in to a paper-writing marathon this afternoon, I bring you a brief cultural update. Today's topic: the typical Austrian breakfast.

Frühstück is of course a very important meal in Austria. (Lunch or the mid-day meal is traditionally the "big" meal of the day, but breakfast is important to start the day off right). While on my own in the apartment, I usually compromise the traditional breakfast and instead grab a quick croissant (often with apricot or chocolate filling!) or enjoy a bowl of Müsli. Almost all of the American-style cereals that are available in stores are very sugary or full of chocolate, so I prefer to avoid those. Müsli is similar to granola, but more loose and usually unbaked. (Heidi at 101 Cookbooks provides a Muesli recipe that sounds delicious as usual).

More traditional breakfast foods include: cold cuts (ham, salami, etc), slices of cheese, various types of bread, butter and jam, soft boiled eggs (always in an egg cup), coffee or tea, juice, etc. If cold cuts are not available, certain types of wurst or sausage might be offered. Yogurt and fruit are also often provided. Besides müsli, cereal is uncommon. American breakfast foods such as French toast and pancakes are basically unheard of (Austrian pancakes, or palatschinken, are essentially crepes). However, let me stress again, bread is very important. Bread and rolls are the crucial element to the Austrian breakfast.

For example, this weekend in Styria I was given a traditional breakfast. As a guest, an array of the following was laid out for me each morning:

• Tea: a huge pot greeted me each morning, and I filled three cups to finish it
  
• Juice: often orange multivitamin
  
• Soft boiled eggs: I learned to crack and peel off the shells in order to scoop out the inside; thus, the egg cup is essential
  
• Bread: this is the bulk of an Austrian breakfast. The vast selection commonly includes the round Semmel roll, the Kipferl (shaped like a croissant), and a square-shaped multigrain roll (name unknown). Slices of bread are also often multigrain or a darker grain... none of this white bread that Americans are used to! Each morning, I ate at least four slices/rolls/pieces, which I spread with...
  
• Jams and Spreads: Butter and three types of homemade jams were offered--an apple-and-something, a berry-peach, and a blood orange-apricot. The flavors were incredible. My hostess offered Nutella and cream cheese, but I would choose the homemade delicacies over a manufactured brand any day.
  

Then again, apart from this extensive list, there's always another type of "traditional" breakfast: a visit to a Viennese coffee house.


An Austrian photographer pictures a typical breadbasket with some common breads I enjoyed as part of a traditional breakfast. The Semmel roll is pictured in the front.

Now that I have sufficiently made myself hungry, I must return to my paper. Bis Später!

Coffee Houses

I think my last post satisfied the quota for pretentiousness. After all, who can resist a short brag to make one's self feel sophisticated? I suppose I did leave out the detail that that café reminded me of a diner, so of course I felt right at home. ^_^

The Viennese love their Kaffeehäuser, and it is no exaggeration to say that you can find a café on every corner (some are just better than others).

A personal photo of one of my favorite haunts--the Café Sperl.

The History (oder "Die Geschichte des Wiener Cafés"):
Coffee was first brought to Vienna by the Turks--the invaders! The second time that they besieged the city, the Turks fled before the Habsburg army and left their bags of coffee beans behind (1684 AD). The Viennese were rather bewildered by what these strange bags were, but after some experimentation, they discovered the wonders of Kaffee. A Polish general is said to have opened the first coffee house in Vienna, and since then it's been tradition. [Wikipedia's more extensive version]

There's coffee houses of all shapes, sizes, and styles. There's the over-priced touristy ones in the first district, there's the artsy and literary houses in the 8th and 9th districts, there's the famous ones that have been around for centuries, and there's the relatively new ones that are off-the-beaten-path and just waiting to be discovered. At all though, you are expected to sit and savor your coffee; while in the US we might only take a few minutes to sit with a cup of coffee or tea (if we sit at all!), the Viennese take their time, engaging in intense conversations or reading the newspaper or writing summer internship essays... for hours on end.

The fin-de-siecle architecture of the more laid-back Café Rüdigerhof

The Menu:
Many will have house specialties, but there are certain things you will find at any good Viennese coffee house:

-Melange- my favorite (rivaled only by the Schokolade-Latte, but not many places seem to have that). This Viennese specialty is like a cappuccino, but much better in my opinion. Here's the link to Wikipedia's explanation; sadly short though. It's also terribly disappointing that the first google search results I got for "Melange" was A) a fictional drug from Dune, and B) a geological formation.

-Brauner (großer or kleiner)- I believe that this is just your standard cup of black coffee, either large or small.

-Einspänner- about 1/3 espresso or coffee and 2/3 foam and whipped cream on top; it's an experience.

-Sachertorte- a chocolate cake (with fudgey icing and a smidge of marmalade), but really good chocolate cake. Invented by the Café Sacher (though its rival, Café Demel, also claims credit), this torte is now famous throughout the city and can be found in almost every coffee house; and for the most part, can only be found in Vienna. A must-try for any visitor.

-Apfelstrudel- another dessert for which Viennese coffee houses are famous--and well-deservedly! This flaky apple pastry is perfect for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, or dessert. Some days nothing pleases me more than a perfectly warmed apple strudel, with a flaky crust and fresh apples, topped with powdered sugar... mmmm!

-Topfenstrudel- Topfen might be best explained by comparing it to American cream cheese. Topfen, or "Quark" cheese, is a crucial ingredient to many Austrian desserts (including Topfenecken). Like Apfelstrudel, Topfenstrudel has many flaky layers of pastry and is filled with this delicious creamy cheese. In addition, it is often drizzled with a tasty vanilla sauce.

A good coffee house will serve a glass of water and a sweet with your coffee. The water serves many purposes; it is refreshing, it cleanses the palate so that you will savor your next sip of coffee more, and it is healthier to accompany coffee with water. [Viennese water is especially delicious, because it comes directly from the Alps-- no chemicals added!] Many coffee houses will serve your cup of coffee and glass of water on a small tray, accompanied by a small chocolate or cookie as the final flourish of taste.

I think that about covers it for now for Kaffeehäuser. Next week: Heurigen!

My photo of a typical melange inside the Sperl