Snapshots from Poznań III

Sto Lat: 100th birthday of the Zamek Castle, 21 August 2010

Restaurant prices

Prior to my arrival in Poland, I was told that it was often more less expensive to go out to eat at a restaurant than it was to buy your own food and cook. I found this hard to believe, but now I'm beginning to see that this is very true.

The other day, I enjoyed a delicious meal on the Rynek, with a beautiful patio view of the marketplace--prime real estate for a restaurant. My meal of a large hearty crepe, a specialty drink, and a large water came to less than $10 USD. This same meal in the States or elsewhere in Europe could have easily cost $25-30 USD. Furthermore, during my grand venture to Ikea yesterday, I paused to have lunch (and enjoy free wifi). In the Polish way, I ordered a dinner-style lunch, complete with soup, a large hot entree, and tea. Granted, Ikea is famously inexpensive, but this rather tasty meal was only 11PLN or about $3.50! When I did the math, I could hardly believe it.

Granted, I've only just begun to cook for myself, so I don't yet have a clear sense of the costs in the supermarket. But I guess I'll have to use this as an excuse to try out all the cafes and restaurants in the area.

Snapshots from Poznań II

National Festival of Good Taste

Wrapping things up

It's hard to believe, but I've already reached the final days of my Polish language training. I can't claim to be fluent in Polish (no where near!), but I do feel more comfortable with the language after these three weeks. Though the real test begins next week, when I won't have the structure of a summer program to support my language learning.

Polish summer courses are fairly popular with students across Europe and across the world. The most famous is the program at Jagiellonian in Kraków, which some semesters enrolls hundreds of students of all ages and nationalities. Smaller programs, like that in Poznań, also exist, as well as at certain universities and in major cities in the U.S. (for example, Washington, D.C.).

Aug. 15: St. Mary of the Herbs

On this date each year, Catholics around the world celebrate the feast of the Assumption, a holy day when Mary was taken up to heaven. In Poland, they also call this day the Blessed Mother of the Herbs or St. Mary of the Herbs Day (Matki Boskiej Zielnej). Bunches of flowers, herbs, and fruit are available everywhere-- outside churches, on sale in the street, etc. Many churchgoers bring a bouquet of these herbs (zioła, or matką ziół) to the church for a blessing and for an offer of thanksgiving. At a parish I attended, it was a children's mass, and at the end of the (rather noisy but lively) service, all the children and families and indeed most of the parish clustered around the altar for a final blessing, holding these herbs and singing songs. They brought these herbs home again after the service, and in olden days they were believed to have heightened powers for seasonings and curative abilities.

This blog also has some interesting additional information regarding Our Lady of the Herbs and harvest festivals.

Bambergian Festival

Today Poznań and the surrounding Wielkopolska region celebrated the annual festival of the Bambergians. The Bambergians were Germans who were invited to live in Poznań in the mid/late 18th century. The population of Poznań and of all of Poland had declined drastically due to so many wars, plagues, and floods. This festival celebrates their unique roots. Though still celebrating their ethnic German background, the Bambergians sided with Poland during both world wars, and these soldiers reaffirmed their loyalty to Poland during their parade today. Here's a few snapshots:

Musicians walking around the Rynek to open the festival at noon


Soldiers




The "bamberka" statue in the middle of the Rynek, decorated in flowers for the day.


And, as I was not able to get a picture of the Bambergian women in their elaborate festive wear, here's some photos from Poznań's website:

Snapshots from Poznań

Notes from PL: Things I Have Learned So Far

As part of a summer language program, I've been gradually learning more about Polish, Poznań, and the local culture. I am the only American enrolled in the program and while English is the language of instruction, I am one of the few native-English speakers. (I've had a lot of fascinating conversations that involved explaining colloquial phrases in English--why do we sometimes address small children as "pumpkin" anyway?-- and learning about similar phrases in German, such as "Mäuschen" and "yaco taco" (not sure about the spelling there...)). Here's some things I've noticed so far:

-"Googlować" is a verb in Polish (also "googlen" auf deustch). So is "facebookować".

-There are only three reasons to learn Polish: 1) For your studies, 2) To reconnect with family or distant Polish roots, or 3) (the most popular reason by far) your boyfriend/girlfriend is Polish.

-Poznań's football team is currently the best in Poland. But they still lost to Praha tonight. (Also, their nickname is "Kolejorz", which roughly translates to railroad workers).

-Poznań's stadium is currently the best stadium for the EuroCup 2012 (but that's because it's the only one that is completed). I believe tonight's match (loss) was the first game in that stadium.

-A (traditional) Polish lunch is HUGE. We're talking soup, meat, potatoes, salad, and vegetables required at each meal with lots of other side dishes to complement. However, dinner/supper is basically the same thing as breakfast (breads, cheeses, lunchmeats, tea), so be sure to eat up.

-Poznań is also famous for its rogale swietomarcinki, or St. Martin's croissants. They're traditionally eaten on Nov. 11, but bakers now often carry them year round. (I can't testify if this recipe is accurate, but it's a good image).

-Like much of the rest of Europe, about 90% of the city center of Poznań was destroyed during World War II. (Poznań was actually part of Prussia for a century, and there was much debate when drafting the Treaty of Versailles if it would be included in the newly resurrected Poland or not). The majority of the buildings were rebuilt using detailed replicas, but the decorative city hall (which is not actually a city hall) located in the center of the Stary Rynek, or old marketplace, was not rebuilt until 1999. During communist times, such a ornate building was not considered necessary.

Hello from Poland!

After two years, I'm back on Central European time (currently 5:33 PM)! Cześć, from a rather rainy Poznań, Poland. I will be living, working, and studying in Poznań for the next year, and I look forward to getting to know this city better.



Few non-Poles know much about Poznań, so here's some quick facts: Poznań is located in western Poland, and it is the capital of the Wielkopolska region. It's about a 2-3 hour train ride from Berlin, located about equidistant between the German and Polish capitals on the Berlin-Warsaw line. Poznań is Poland's 5th largest city (after Warsaw, Kraków, Łódź, and Gdańsk), and its Adam Mickiewicz University is regarded as the third best in all of Poland (and it was also the first founded after Poland reemerged as a state following WWI). If my population estimates are correct, Poznań is roughly the size of Portland, Oregon. It's a beautiful city that really mixes old and new.

Internet access will be limited for the first few weeks, but I will share more pictures, observations, and stories as they happen.

For now, do zobaczenia!

**Maintenance Note**

Time stamp changing again. For all posts prior to this that were written in Eastern Standard Time, subtract 6 hours from the stamp listed. This blog is now on Polish time. :)

Mission Impossible

I'm attempting the impossible. Due to new airline fees and restrictions, I'm attempting to pack for a year abroad using one suitcase, one carry-on, and a satchel bag. Nothing else. It's well-documented that I hate packing, but this is just ridiculous.

If it were just clothes, that would be one thing. Clothes can be left behind or replaced. But then add in a year's worth of medications, contact solution, and other heavy items, many of which are liquid and thus need packed in the checked bag. 44lb. 22kg. Seems like I'm only started to pack, and I've already passed the weight limit.

All my winter clothes will be shipped, but that only scrapes the surface of this packing monster.

We have a Verdict

Looks like the International Court of Justice (ICJ) was a bit more clear-cut regarding the Kosovo ruling than expected: World Court Rules Kosovo Independence was Legal (also: the NYT initial release)

China, Spain, Russia, and others fear that such a ruling might encourage their own secessionist movements. However, though the media often forgets about this small European nation that is still rebuilding, lessons can also be learned from the long nation-building process in Kosovo.

Twittering Diplomats

I tend to usually fall into the category that mocks all the fuss and "twouble" with Twitters, but the antics of Jared Cohen and Alec Ross might make me rethink this position. As highlighted recently by the NYT, Cohen and Ross are policy advisers to Secretary Hilary Clinton, and they're personally bringing old-fashioned diplomacy into the new digital age. DoS has had an offical blog and official Twitter for a couple years now, but the tweets of 140 characters or less directly from the policy advisers seem to have a fresher, more candid or direct take. Not to mention that the official Twitter has only a fraction of the followers of Cohen or Ross.

Street pianos

Here's a beautiful project by artist Luke Jerram to bring a little more music into our everyday lives. Recently installed in New York City, Jerram and his piano concept have been traveling the world and enabling ordinary people to sit down and create music amidst the city cacophony. Artists decorated over 60 pianos and placed them in public places across the five boroughs--and don't worry, music enthusiasts, I can personally testify that the pianos were covered during rainy weather (which sadly prevented me from playing). After the installation, the pianos were donated to local schools and community groups.

Next up, Belfast, Pécs, Cincinnati, San Jose, and Grand Rapids will get to enjoy this communal masterpiece.

Bookmark Dump

1000 Awesome Things: For when you're feeling down and want reminded of the amazing little things of life.

What English sounds like to foreigners: An Italian's imitation of American English prosody through rock music; I can't help trying to understand the words, even though it's all gibberish.

Paris in 26 gigapixels: Enjoy a detailed, zoom-able panorama of the city of love as if you were there.

Kodak's blog: Filled with beautiful pictures. Also see National Geographic's Daily Dozen Your Shot submissions. Beautiful images of the world!

Antique Photo Generator: Have your photos instantly turned into antique-style prints! This is quite fun to play with.

Last World Cup post (for this year)

The World Cup has been quite a ride this year, and soon this largest sporting event in the world will be over until 2014. Well done, South Africa.

With the first half of the final well under way, the question on everyone's mind is not only who will claim this year's title, but will the octopus remain undefeated?

Unless you've been living in a box, you've probably heard of Paul the Octopus by now. This "psychic" cephalopod lives in an aquarium in southern Germany, and he has a knack for determining the winner in German matches. His fame skyrocketed when he correctly predicted the upset victory of Germany toppling Argentina in the semis. The octopus makes his selection by choosing a tasty mussel treat from one of two boxes, each with a national flag on it. His record is currently 7 for 7, correctly predicting each winner in every match Germany played.

Now he'll try his knack with other teams. Paul's picked Spain as today's winner. Experts have carefully calculated that Paul has a 50% chance of being correct, so let's see how it goes.

If my team is out (though bronze again is better than nothing, I suppose), I guess I'll cheer for the German octopus instead.

USA v. Ghana

It's been an interesting World Cup. The French couldn't win, the favored Spanish lost to the underdog Swiss, and the Italians, the defending world champions, were ousted by the small nation of Slovakia, in their first World Cup since independence. The quote that has been circulating the internet jokingly claims, "This World Cup is like World War II. France leave early, USA turn up at the last minute, and England is left fighting the Germans."

I'm very excited for the USA. I'm thrilled that this is the first time that they've won their group (and possibly the first time they've made to it Round of 16) since the first World Cup in 1930. But the Americans will be playing Ghana. As the last African nation in the first African World Cup, I think that I agree with this NYT commentator. The USA has dominated countless sports for decades. We consistently top the medal records for the Olympics, an American just won Wimbledon, and the US has won the women's World Cup in 1991 and 1999. Our first love remains (American) football. Another FIFA loss would be frustrating, but most of America probably wouldn't even care. In contrast, imagine the morale boost for the entire country of Ghana, and for all of Africa, if their team gets to advance. Perhaps it's an idealistic notion, but perhaps sports bring healing and progress.

I hope the Red, White, and Blue play well, and I will be thrilled if they do advance. But patriotic allegiance aside, I'll be cheering for the Red, Yellow, and Green. Let's go Ghana, and let's go Africa!

May the best team win.

World Cup Again

The World Cup starts this Friday in South Africa. So excited! Here's another "official" theme song... how many are there now?

Museum Mile Festival

The annual Museum Mile Festival is tonight in New York City. From 6-9pm, gain free access to nine of the museums in the Upper East Side--including the Met, the Neue Galerie, the Guggenheim, and more--and enjoy live music and art everywhere in between. This festival is usually held each year on the second Tuesday of June.

Frugal Travelers

NYT Frugal Traveler Matt Gross has passed the baton to a new FT, Seth Kugel. Kugel will be traveling across South America on a tight budget this summer.

One of Gross' final columns was regarding a journey from Vienna to Budapest by foot. The Danube hike sounds beautiful, though walk steadily for so many days can take its toll. In Vienna proper, the NYT today is highlighting the resurgence of the Karmeliterviertel and Jewish life.