70th Anniversary of World War II

This is a year fraught with anniversaries. Not only did the Eastern Bloc open to the West 20 years ago this year, but World War II also began 70 years ago this month.

On this date in 1939, the Soviet Union invaded Poland. Sixteen days earlier, on Sept. 1, Germany had invaded Poland; this resulted in the declaration of war and the beginning of World War II in Europe.

By early October, Germany and the Soviet Union had divided and annexed the whole of Poland. This occupation continued until 1945 when borders were redrawn. World leaders have commemorated these historic anniversaries and apologized for the past, though some may argue, not enough.

My 1989 timeline has been a bit delayed, so keep an eye out as I go back to note the events of August and Septemeber 1989.

From Oppression to Opportunity for Women Worldwide

This week, the Times published the following powerful piece on the plight of women in poor countries, the success of microfinancing when directed toward women, and what this could mean for global assistance. It's long, but well worth the read.
The Women's Crusade

Packing Woes

Packing to move to a new place. Packing up months later to move back. No matter how many times I do this, I cannot seem to fall into a routine. Every time, I end up discovering that I have more belongings than ever before. Every time, I end up trying to bring more stuff but have less space. Every time, everything seems left until the last minute.

I wish I could offer substantial packing tips, but unfortunately I'm both a packrat and a procrastinator. Best tip: Start as early as possible. Also, try playing good music to postpone the inevitable frustration.

If only I took my own advice. Now, back to the jungle of boxes and suitcases!

DC's Second-Hand Bookstores

In case you haven't noticed from all my posts about books, I adore books and I love bookstores. But beyond the large commercial chains, I'm especially passionate about independent bookstores. And I'm more-than-a-bit obsessed with second-hand/used or rare bookstores.

When traveling, I seek out such bookstores, such as Another Country in Berlin. In Vienna, I frequented Yellow Taschenbücher by the University. In New York, I was a regular at Strand. One day I will make it to the famous Shakespeare & Co. in Paris. Yes, my bookshelves are currently overflowing with more books than I have time to read, but I feel as if I come alive when I enter a bookstore to be surrounded by volumes of art and knowledge. There is so much yet to learn! (Also, seems like every time I enter, I leave with more titles that I need to add to The List).

In a tiny corner near the Eastern Market, often only found thanks to the simple sign of "Books" with an arrow, stands Capitol Hill Books. If you do not notice the faded awning, you might not even realize the name of the store that you are entering. The window is crowded with stacks upon stacks of books, almost obscuring the tiny sign that declares the place "open". Upon entering, you are at first unsure how to proceed: Choose the steep and narrow path up the stairs, crowded with tall piles of books on every step? Or take the turn to the left to stay on the ground level with a low ceiling and an unknown path ahead? A gruff voice barks out from the left: "Fiction upstairs, nonfiction downstairs!" Perhaps you peer around the corner to connect the voice with an older man at a desk that serves as a check-out, surrounded by piles of books and newspapers clipping, manually processing ever transaction with a pen and paper. Then you scamper upstairs, attempting to not knock over any of the precariously placed piles of books on the steps.


My photos of Capitol Hill books

This was my haunt in DC. Capitol Hill books only offers used books, but it is a Mecca for all bibliophiles. Once you are surrounded by your genre of choice, it is hard to suppress a childlike grin. Every title is tempting and accessible (and affordable!) and it's easy to grab a spot on the floor and start reading--just watch out for the other bibliophiles who will have to step over you to get through! The place is haphazardly arranged and feels organized by a packrat, but the character of this bookstore continues to draw patrons. You don't go to Capitol Hill Books to quickly find a specific title; you go to wander through and find a title that you never knew existed.

A bit more about the visual beauty of the place. The floor-to-ceiling books provide huge varieties but often might be precariously perched and rarely offer much space to move around. Be sure to check out the poetry room (upstairs in the back, surrounding the refrigerator and broken sink), the basement (Sci Fi, Latin American politics, Native American studies, botany, etc), and the "Foreign Language room" (a.k.a. the bathroom. Shelves of non-English books surround the toilet, but you must wait in line if someone has to use the loo).

I highly recommend Capitol Hill Books to all bibliophiles, but NOT to claustrophobics.




Also check out a couple of spots near Dupont Circle: Second Story Books, a less claustrophobic second-hand and rare bookstore; and Kramerbooks, an eclectic store of new books and a tasty cafe.

Gelato Dreamland

Last night I dreamed about Zanoni & Zanoni. Such a wonderful place, and right in the heart of Wien near Stephansplatz. So many delicious flavors of gelato, all needing sampled!

I especially miss the 2€ Blumentüte, a giant "flower cone" which could hold three scoops/flavors of different gelato. In other words, it's a student's dream. I have yet to find any gelato in America that can begin to compare.

Recipe: Asparagus, Goat Cheese, and Chicken, oh my!

Waltzing Matelda goes gourmet!

Or so I felt when baking with asparagus and goat cheese. I tweaked and substituted ingredients in an old epicurious recipe and ended up with a very different dish. (Originally artichokes, fontina cheese, and sundried tomatoes).

Chicken Stuffed with Asparagus, Goat Cheese, and Sundried Tomatoes

4 chicken breasts
1/2 C. sundried tomatoes, cut into very small pieces
1 bunch of asparagus, diced very small
8 oz. (or about 1 C.) goat cheese
Oregano
Olive Oil
Optional rosemary, salt, pepper

1.) Boil a pot of water, and preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2.) After reaching rolling boil, add diced asparagus for one minute, only 60 seconds. Do not overcook! After one minute, remove from boiling water and drain asparagus. Run cold water over the strainer to cool down the asparagus and prevent additional cooking.
3.) In a medium bowl, mix chopped sundried tomatoes, goat cheese, and asparagus. Add oregano and optional rosemary to this mixture.
4.) Using a sharp knife, work with each chicken breast one at a time to cut a slit in one side, opening up the middle of the chicken breast to be stuffed.
5.) Stuff each chicken breast with the cheese mixture. Be careful not to overfill; the mixture should be packed into the chicken breast, but the chicken should not be bursting. If possible, try to squeeze the slit closed once full.
6.) Heat approx 2 Tbsp of olive oil on the stove. Add stuffed chicken breasts; cook on one side for 2 minutes; flip over and only briefly cook on the other side. Add to an oven-safe pan.
7.) Put the pan of chicken in the oven for approximately 15 minutes at 375 degrees F until cooked through.

Another tasty recipe: Mediterranean Chicken with Eggplant

Support for East European Democracies

Another 1989 landmark: It has been 20 years since the US started providing funding and humanitarian aid toward the development of democracies in Central/Eastern Europe. Since 1989, this contemporary Marshall Plan has "graduated" a number of states, from Estonia to Poland to Hungary to Croatia. US aid in the region continues its efforts in the Balkans and former Soviet countries.


A poster advertising the Marshall Plan, otherwise known as the
European Recovery Program, after WWII

National Days

Also, Happy Bastille Day (France, July 14)! And a belated Happy National Day (Montenegro, July 13)!

Early July is apparently a very popular time for national holidays.

Sing-along with Gazprom

In the tradition of "Someone Like Putin", a new song is topping Russian charts, which praises the government-owned natural gas monopoly, Gazprom.




Russia holds the largest reserves of natural gas in the world, and Gazprom controls these reserves and the pipelines, servicing much of Europe and Eurasia. Thus, economic disputes often become political, such as when Russia cut off the gas to Ukraine in January of this year. Actually just yesterday, Turkey and the EU signed an agreement to build the Nabucco Pipeline, attempting to bypass Russian soil and thus avoid Russian dependence.

Eastern Market festivities!

Eastern Market is reopening their North Hall today (in renovation since the 2007 fire), and festivities continue through tomorrow. If you're in DC, check the schedule and come check it out!

You know you're new to Washington when...

... you see someone wearing a "W" in script on a hat and immediately think it's the insignia for Wegman's, not understanding why someone would be sporting the supermarket's hat on the metro. At the next stop, when a flood of other people get on wearing various "W" gear--hats, shirts, bags--you realize that it's the insignia for the Washington Nationals who played today.

I contend that it was an honest (albeit amusing) mistake, from one who does not closely follow baseball and who misses having the Wegman's supermarket nearby. ^_^











Side-by-side the truth is more apparent: differences in script in the W for Wegmans and the W for the Nationals.

Go Remy Arlington Rap

Anyone who has lived in the DC area, especially in Arlington, will appreciate Remy's latest feat:



... at the Starbucks or the Starbucks or the Starbucks or the Starbucks...

June 16, 1989

First of all, as we can't be neglecting our literary dates, Happy Bloomsday!

Twenty years ago, June 16 proved to be the second step toward the fall of communism in Eastern Europe. Just days before in Poland, Solidarity had emerged victorious in the first free, democratic election in all of Eastern Europe. June 16, 1989, was a day of symbolism for Hungary, but this symbolism proved most powerful. On this date, the Hungarians performed a reburial--a reinterment of a man who was once regarded as a traitor, an enemy of the state, and perhaps even Hungary's most potent criminal against communism.

In 1953, the Hungarian Communist Party selected reform-minded Imre Nagy as their new Prime Minister, but he only lasted two years before falling out of favor. In October 1956, the people called for a change and students discontent with communism, led to the Hungarian Uprising. Amidst tumult and revolt, the people of Hungary called on Nagy as their revolutionary leader. Indeed, it is hard to understate the significance of the 1956 Hungarian Revolution; not only is it regarded as one of the proudest moments in Hungarian history, but it also marks the first major revolt against communism and the USSR--indeed, a revolution against the revolution. But in November, Soviet tanks invaded Hungary. Nagy was arrested and, along with other leaders of the revolution, executed and dishonorably interred.

Decades later, the Soviet Union was beginning to weaken, and a more flexible and reform-minded Hungary was passing legislation toward democracy. In May they had removed barbed wire from the borders with Austria, the first step toward opening borders with the West (!), and thus slowly tearing a hole in the Iron Curtain. In this spirit, on June 16 the grave of Nagy and his revolutionary comrades was opened, and they were honorably buried with pomp and respect. 250,000 people are estimated to have attended his reburial.

The Reinterment of Nagy was just another step away from the USSR and toward democratization. However, historians today consider this symbolic act as the keystone in Hungary's strides toward democracy in 1989; the symbolism became the strongest mark in their break with communism. Like Solidarity's election in Poland, Nagy's reburial marked the rise of a New Europe, encouraging and accelerating revolutionaries in neighboring Czechoslovakia and East Germany.

Some time after Nagy's reinterment, a statue was built to commemorate the leader. He is posed on a bridge, staring wistfully toward the Hungarian Parliament building. Twenty years after the event of his reinterment, Hungarians celebrated their hero and the change he wrought--both in life and in death.


Imre Nagy's statue looking toward the Hungarian Parliament (my photo, May 2008)

Praise for Latin

In the age when foreign languages are frequently being cut from school budgets, the argument often arises: What is the value of Latin? What's the point in teaching students a dead language that they will never be able to use?

In high school, I remember many academically-ambitious students solely choosing to study Latin as a means to improve their SAT scores. According to their argument, the study of Latin would make them more aware of the etymology behind word roots, and thus they would have a distinct advantage in the vocabulary section--even if they did not know the word, they could recognize the Latin roots to guess its meaning.

Though this may be true, students of French, Spanish, or German might not be far behind thanks to all the cognates and crossovers between the languages. However, I firmly believe that Latin has a much more meaningful value beyond improving test scores.

Unfortunately, I have not yet had the opportunity to learn Latin myself, but I am familiar with some of the cases and I am very aware of the disciplined work required of any Classics major and the complex struggle to create a short translation. The Guardian recently reported the reinstation of Latin by many British schools and offered Charlotte Higgins' view to praise its value. Latin not only teaches word roots and etymology, but it teaches discipline, grammar, and structure. Thus, Latin is not only relevant when learning another foreign language (and may be especially useful when learning a language with cases, like German), but it improves our understanding of the prescriptive rules of "proper" grammar in our own native English. Harry Mount most eloquently puts it in his masterful "Vote for Latin" from 2007.

In Vienna, I taught at a Gymnasium (high school equivalent) and worked with students who were learning English. For most students, English was just one of many languages that they were studying. Early in their studies (I believe around age 10), the students would select to study either English or Russian as their specialty and continue this study intensely at least until graduation (and the Matura exams) at age 18. Around age 12, all students started learning another language: Latin. From there students could continue by starting French, picking up the other specialty language (English/Russian), and taking electives in Spanish or Italian. Competency in multiple languages was crucial for an Austrian student, given the country's central position in Europe bordering so many different language groups. Thus, instruction with Latin is essential and provides the disciplined foundation for all future language learning and made learning the Romance languages much easier. (Indeed, older students would ask for Latin, rather than German, translations of English words in order to more fully understand the meaning).

In America, we're not surrounded by so many different languages, and thus our education's focus is not on foreign languages and certainly not on Latin. Don't get me wrong, I know that there are other important things to study and the mastery of any foreign language is very difficult. But I think we suffer because of our lack of respect for languages in education. We even blindly declare the dead language to be "useless". But Latin is not just a language for monuments, but a tongue for intellectualism and deeper thought, for instruction and comprehension, for developing discipline and devotion.

June 4, 1989

June 4 was a tumultuous date in 1989. The Ayatollah Khomeini of Iran, who led the Iranian Revolution ten years before to overthrow the Shah, died the day before; the funeral of this controversial figure was held on this date. Millions attended. Wikipedia informs me that June 4 was also the date that of an Ufa train disaster in Russia. In passing, two trains threw sparks at each other near a leaky natural gas pipeline; 645 people were killed in the resulting explosion.

In addition, two big events really mark this date as unique and significant--a date of celebration or infamy. First, if you have been following the news today, you will have seen on the front page, beside the news of Obama's speech in Cairo, the 20th Anniversary of the Tiananmen Square Massacre. (Missed it? Try this one, this one, Hong Kong's vigil, Beijing's silence, this collection of photos and commentary, and the photographer's perspective on returning 20 years later). In late May 1989, students began gathering in Beijing to protest corruption; however, these protests turned into a call for democracy, including a raising of the Goddess of Democracy. However, protests turned ugly when tanks rolled into the square. The army opened fire on June 4, and countless numbers of unarmed students were killed and injured in the massacre. Today, these anonymous protesters are remembered around the world as heroes for democracy, though controversy continues in China.


One of the most famous images of 1989 Tiananmen Square


Buried behind the headlines, you might have seen word of another remarkable anniversary: the 20th anniversary of Solidarity's victory in Poland in the polls. At first, this may not seem so remarkable, but consider that the pre-1989 world was divided into spheres--the Soviet spheres of influence and communist countries and the American spheres of influence and democratic countries. The Iron Curtain was not merely a metaphor, but a reality of life--there was no passage between East and West.

Yet on June 4 in Poland, a pro-Western and pro-democracy party (originally a labor union in Gdansk) achieved an incredible victory in one of the first legitimate elections held in the Eastern Bloc, thus marking a turning point in the entire course of European history. The success of Solidarity--which had struggled to exist for ten years, had been banned many times in Communist Poland, and was only legitimized again a few months prior to the election--was the first of many cracks in the rigid Iron Curtain. European leaders commemorated this turning-point today; in retrospect we can see that through this election, the Poles led the way in the anti-communist revolutions across Eastern Europe and the transition to democracy. And in Poland's case, this was all accomplished both legally through elections and peacefully without any loss of life.

Across the globe, June 4, 1989 was a date of cries for democracy and the beginning of change.


Solidarity founder (and later Polish president) Lech Wałęsa and Solidarity

Twenty years ago

History is fickle and tends to repeat herself, but every now and again, a year comes along that really stands apart from the rest. Maybe that year was a time of momentous beginnings, of unheard of discoveries and great advances in human thought that marked a change in mankind's progression. Or maybe it was a year of endings, of collapsing empires, slaughter and destruction, and of mankind reformed as the phoenix rising from the rubble. Either way, during these remarkable years, when momentous unrelated world events happened simultaneously or one set off a ripple to cause many others, these years changed the course of history.

The twentieth century was a remarkable time. One could argue that we had a number of such years. 1968. 1945. 1918.

This year marks the twentieth anniversary of one of the most remarkable years: 1989, the year of the sudden collapse of communism, the opening of the Berlin Wall, and the massacred cry for democracy in Tiananmen Square. Artists are reflecting on the meaning of this year, Writers are submitting their anecdotes, and everyday people are offering their stories.

Here at Waltzing Matelda, I will do my part by offering a summation and reflection on the majors events of 1989 (culminating in the collapse of the Iron Curtain) on the date of their anniversary. Stay tuned for regular updates on this feature, and check the new label 1989 for a chronological list as they occur.

Next Up

I was tempted to write this like a bad movie trailer, but chickened out.

It's summer 2009, and this year Waltzing Matelda is taking on a new city--Washington, DC. Prepare for reviews, pictures, travel suggestions, and crazy observations in the US capital. And more likely than not, prepare for lots of comparisons to New York City and Vienna.

Catch you on the flip side.

Introverted traveling

I tend to consider myself an "introvert with extrovert tendencies"(Myers-Briggs usually gives me an I rather than an E, but I'm borderline), so it was very interesting to consider how differences in personality affect how a person travels. (via kottke)

Roberto and Dante

Italian actor and comedian Roberto Benigni (also famous for his exuberance at the 1999 Oscars) brings his stand up Dante act (Tutto Dante, here in Italian) to the US. He begins by reciting a canto (from memory) and then humorously interpreting it to our modern day. (sound familiar?) He will be in the Hammerstein Ballroom in NYC this Saturday. Other cities on his eight show tour include Montreal, QC (two shows); Boston, MA; Toronto, ON; and and Quebec City, QC, before concluding on June 12 in Chicago, IL. (Review from the NY Times)

His words at a recent interview really encapsulate the power of Dante's Comedia, as one of the greatest works ever written: “We need to have the nerve to understand why a man with a big nose 700 years ago had the heroic shamelessness to write. Really this is the most daring, bold poetry ever. In 2,000 years of Christian poetry they never surpassed this. They never produced such a scandal of beauty. Never, never, nobody.”


Benigni recites the very beginning of the Comedia with the first lines of the Inferno.

Art on the Wall

Abstract Reflections on the Berlin Wall, which opened 20 years ago this year.