Sunday, September 26, 2010

Public History

From my ex-pat perspective, the people here (here being Europe) seem acutely aware of place and of history. Sometimes this takes the form of celebrating ancient anniversaries, sometimes more recent anniversaries, sometimes just celebrating the history of a building or the evolution of a public space. My Russian studies professor used to joke that in Europe, there were so many anniversaries that you could find something appropriate to commemorate for any possible date on the calendar. Indeed, dates are very important (just ask the Obama administration, who made the mistake of announcing the changed missile defense program in Poland on the anniversary of Russia's WW2 invasion of Poland). Regardless, the public administration seems very keen to provide such celebrations and commemorations and the public seems apt to take part.

For example, at the beginning of this month, posters appeared in the Stary Rynek (old marketplace) and Adam Mickiewicz Square of Poznań, marking the 30th anniversary of Solidarity. In Kraków this past week, I observed the final celebrations of the 600th anniversary of Grunwald, the battle between the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth and the Teutonic Knights. Celebrations took place across Poland, but some of the highlights were in Malbork, the former castle of the Knights, and in Kraków, the seat of the Polish dynasty at that time. And today, walking past the Zamek, I noticed a new set of posters chronicling the 100 years of history of this castle.

However, what surprises me most of all is not merely the initiative of various groups to mark such commemorations and arduously piece together the past and display the history, but the eagerness of the public to take part. The posters outside of the Zamek were completely surrounded today, so much so that I gave up trying to find a space to read them myself. Similarly, for the first week or two, there were always at least 5 people reading the Solidarność posters at any given time (the collections of about 30+ posters in each location are still outside on display). And the Grunwald ceremonies of Kraków were packed! It's not that I don't think that Americans would enjoy these commemorations and exhibits of information, but I doubt that many would take the time to gather to read, observe, learn, and participate.

Maybe America is still too young of a nation to have many public commemorations of places or events. But at the same time, 234 years is a longer history than many of the states of the world. (Though whether or not the nations of people trace a longer history of statelessness is another story). More plausibly, we are still too young to have become comfortable with our cohesiveness as a nation. Or maybe we're just not interested in (or the public administration does not think we're interested in) our own history?

Yet as I walked back today, I found myself wondering about many of the buildings in the cities where I have lived, and how I know next to nothing about them or what has happened in those spaces. I might be able to tell you the year for certain major events in American history, but almost never the exact date. (Whereas in Poland and in Europe, it seems like there's a different anniversary for every week!) I know nothing about the history or places of my home town, besides that it used to be all farmland and earned a spot in a footnote of history as a sometime stop on the Underground Railroad. I can tell you a little more about Rochester, NY, but that is mostly from ventures in urban exploring (be sure to visit the abandoned subway!), conversations during long car rides with older professors, and flipping through the tan Images of America paperback books. And even during my short stays in NYC and DC, my awareness of the history of each place was mostly only supplemented by what I had learned in schools or a paragraph in a tour book.

Friday marks the 2-month anniversary of my departure from the USA, but as I learn more about Poznań and Poland and Europe, I find myself seeing America in a new light, and wondering things about it that I hadn't considered before, perhaps giving me a new appreciation of home from afar.

Monday, September 13, 2010

Smacznego!

From Poznań's Bread Festival this past weekend. Bakers from across Poland displayed their wares, including some of the most creative decorations on bread that I have ever seen. More pictures to come, I'm sure.



Enjoy your meal!

Sunday, September 12, 2010

"There is No 'Ground Zero Mosque'"

Thank you for some common sense at last, Mr. Olbermann



Countdown with Keith Olbermann, MSNBC, 16 August 2010

Almost a month later, and this over-politicized issue remains blown out of proportion, affecting even the mourning of yesterday's 9th anniversary, as stereotypes, prejudice, and misinformation continue to dominate. When will we learn?

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Zapraszamy do Poznania

Welcome to Poznań, Poland! Here's the second of two videos that provide an artistic tour of the city.

Words for Family

Here's an interesting discussion about language and how different languages express familial relations. (For example, in Spanish concuñado is "the brother of the spouse of my sibling" (my brother-in-law's brother?), easily expressing the connection without having to worry about such a mouthful).

English seems quite bland and simplistic in comparison to some of the examples given. I recently also learned about Bininj gun-wok, an indigenous Australian language, which has a collection of familial terminology so complex that it can take more than 20 years for native speakers to fully acquire them all!

Today's Photo: Rondo Kaponiera



Things I am not looking forward to: When this entire intersection, one of the busiest in Poznań (though I know it doesn't look it here), is practically shut down and remodeled beginning in 2011. The morning commute is going to become a nightmare.

(This also happened while I was in Wien and they were extending the U2 to reach the stadium. Looks like it's under construction again).

Oh, the things that a city will do for the Euro Cup 2012. Such as christening the stadium with a Sting concert. It's quite a big deal. There's even a countdown on the website for the number of days left. I'm trying not to make it known that I'm not the biggest Sting fan.

Monday, September 6, 2010

Perceptions of America

I recently signed up for a week-long human rights program in Poznań, to attend lectures and meet with other students and professionals who are active in the field of human rights. While the lectures have been very illuminating, perhaps the most interesting aspect of the program for me is interacting with the other individuals. Like the language training class, I am the sole American; in this case, I believe that I am also the only native-English speaker.

As such, my classmates have had a lot of questions for me regarding what America is actually like. They have seen many American movies and TV shows; what I found most interesting was the questions that I am most commonly asked. Here's just a few:

  • Does everyone in America own their own house?
  • Does everyone own a car?
  • Does every American own a handgun? (This was actually a 13-year-old in Vienna. Yes, we are all cowboys).

  • Is American high school really like it is in the movies?

  • What about those clubs/groups at universities, with all the crazy parties? (After some confusion, I realize he/she is asking about fraternities and sororities. Apparently such organizations do not exist at European universities).

  • How on earth do Americans pay the university prices? (Leading to a long discussion about the frustrations of financial aid, scholarships, and loans).

  • Does everyone go to university in the U.S.? Is there no standard for entrance? (Leading to another long discussion about SATs, GREs, NY Regents, etc. and how this compares to the Polish or German Matura or the French Bac).

  • What do Americans think of Obama, especially as compared to Bush?

  • Why of all places did you choose Poland?

Another K'NAAN video

Because even though the World Cup is long over, I still can't get enough of this song.

Friday, August 27, 2010

Snapshots from Poznań IV



Mechanical goats butting heads above the City Hall clock at 12 noon each day... a Poznań favorite!

Pakistani Floods

Are we tired of hearing about natural disasters this year? Earthquakes in Haiti and Chile, floods across Europe, countless other disasters that have not been given mainstream media attention, and now floods in Pakistan with destruction considered "greater than the damage from the 2004 Asian tsunami, the 2005 Pakistan earthquake, and the 2010 Haiti earthquake combined." The hard work to build up the infrastructure of this failed state has been washed away. And yet the donors have kept their purses closed. Why doesn't the world care about Pakistanis? If this were a different country, despite the recession and all the other disasters in recent years, it's likely that if would have received media attention more comparable to Haiti or the tsunami, and it's likely that we would all be more generous. Don't get me started on the mosque near the WTC site debate.

For what it's worth, here's yahoo's list of How to Help.

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Snapshots from Poznań III



Sto Lat: 100th birthday of the Zamek Castle, 21 August 2010

Restaurant prices

Prior to my arrival in Poland, I was told that it was often more less expensive to go out to eat at a restaurant than it was to buy your own food and cook. I found this hard to believe, but now I'm beginning to see that this is very true.

The other day, I enjoyed a delicious meal on the Rynek, with a beautiful patio view of the marketplace--prime real estate for a restaurant. My meal of a large hearty crepe, a specialty drink, and a large water came to less than $10 USD. This same meal in the States or elsewhere in Europe could have easily cost $25-30 USD. Furthermore, during my grand venture to Ikea yesterday, I paused to have lunch (and enjoy free wifi). In the Polish way, I ordered a dinner-style lunch, complete with soup, a large hot entree, and tea. Granted, Ikea is famously inexpensive, but this rather tasty meal was only 11PLN or about $3.50! When I did the math, I could hardly believe it.

Granted, I've only just begun to cook for myself, so I don't yet have a clear sense of the costs in the supermarket. But I guess I'll have to use this as an excuse to try out all the cafes and restaurants in the area.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Snapshots from Poznań II

IMG_6463

National Festival of Good Taste

Wrapping things up

It's hard to believe, but I've already reached the final days of my Polish language training. I can't claim to be fluent in Polish (no where near!), but I do feel more comfortable with the language after these three weeks. Though the real test begins next week, when I won't have the structure of a summer program to support my language learning.

Polish summer courses are fairly popular with students across Europe and across the world. The most famous is the program at Jagiellonian in Kraków, which some semesters enrolls hundreds of students of all ages and nationalities. Smaller programs, like that in Poznań, also exist, as well as at certain universities and in major cities in the U.S. (for example, Washington, D.C.).

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Aug. 15: St. Mary of the Herbs

On this date each year, Catholics around the world celebrate the feast of the Assumption, a holy day when Mary was taken up to heaven. In Poland, they also call this day the Blessed Mother of the Herbs or St. Mary of the Herbs Day (Matki Boskiej Zielnej). Bunches of flowers, herbs, and fruit are available everywhere-- outside churches, on sale in the street, etc. Many churchgoers bring a bouquet of these herbs (zioła, or matką ziół) to the church for a blessing and for an offer of thanksgiving. At a parish I attended, it was a children's mass, and at the end of the (rather noisy but lively) service, all the children and families and indeed most of the parish clustered around the altar for a final blessing, holding these herbs and singing songs. They brought these herbs home again after the service, and in olden days they were believed to have heightened powers for seasonings and curative abilities.

This blog also has some interesting additional information regarding Our Lady of the Herbs and harvest festivals.



Sunday, August 8, 2010

Bambergian Festival

Today Poznań and the surrounding Wielkopolska region celebrated the annual festival of the Bambergians. The Bambergians were Germans who were invited to live in Poznań in the mid/late 18th century. The population of Poznań and of all of Poland had declined drastically due to so many wars, plagues, and floods. This festival celebrates their unique roots. Though still celebrating their ethnic German background, the Bambergians sided with Poland during both world wars, and these soldiers reaffirmed their loyalty to Poland during their parade today. Here's a few snapshots:

Musicians walking around the Rynek to open the festival at noon


Soldiers




The "bamberka" statue in the middle of the Rynek, decorated in flowers for the day.
Bamberka

And, as I was not able to get a picture of the Bambergian women in their elaborate festive wear, here's some photos from Poznań's website:



Snapshots from Poznań

foggy morning

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Notes from PL: Things I Have Learned So Far

As part of a summer language program, I've been gradually learning more about Polish, Poznań, and the local culture. I am the only American enrolled in the program and while English is the language of instruction, I am one of the few native-English speakers. (I've had a lot of fascinating conversations that involved explaining colloquial phrases in English--why do we sometimes address small children as "pumpkin" anyway?-- and learning about similar phrases in German, such as "Mäuschen" and "yaco taco" (not sure about the spelling there...)). Here's some things I've noticed so far:

-"Googlować" is a verb in Polish (also "googlen" auf deustch). So is "facebookować".

-There are only three reasons to learn Polish: 1) For your studies, 2) To reconnect with family or distant Polish roots, or 3) (the most popular reason by far) your boyfriend/girlfriend is Polish.

-Poznań's football team is currently the best in Poland. But they still lost to Praha tonight. (Also, their nickname is "Kolejorz", which roughly translates to railroad workers).

-Poznań's stadium is currently the best stadium for the EuroCup 2012 (but that's because it's the only one that is completed). I believe tonight's match (loss) was the first game in that stadium.

-A (traditional) Polish lunch is HUGE. We're talking soup, meat, potatoes, salad, and vegetables required at each meal with lots of other side dishes to complement. However, dinner/supper is basically the same thing as breakfast (breads, cheeses, lunchmeats, tea), so be sure to eat up.

-Poznań is also famous for its rogale swietomarcinki, or St. Martin's croissants. They're traditionally eaten on Nov. 11, but bakers now often carry them year round. (I can't testify if this recipe is accurate, but it's a good image).

-Like much of the rest of Europe, about 90% of the city center of Poznań was destroyed during World War II. (Poznań was actually part of Prussia for a century, and there was much debate when drafting the Treaty of Versailles if it would be included in the newly resurrected Poland or not). The majority of the buildings were rebuilt using detailed replicas, but the decorative city hall (which is not actually a city hall) located in the center of the Stary Rynek, or old marketplace, was not rebuilt until 1999. During communist times, such a ornate building was not considered necessary.

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

Hello from Poland!

After two years, I'm back on Central European time (currently 5:33 PM)! Cześć, from a rather rainy Poznań, Poland. I will be living, working, and studying in Poznań for the next year, and I look forward to getting to know this city better.



Few non-Poles know much about Poznań, so here's some quick facts: Poznań is located in western Poland, and it is the capital of the Wielkopolska region. It's about a 2-3 hour train ride from Berlin, located about equidistant between the German and Polish capitals on the Berlin-Warsaw line. Poznań is Poland's 5th largest city (after Warsaw, Kraków, Łódź, and Gdańsk), and its Adam Mickiewicz University is regarded as the third best in all of Poland (and it was also the first founded after Poland reemerged as a state following WWI). If my population estimates are correct, Poznań is roughly the size of Portland, Oregon. It's a beautiful city that really mixes old and new.

Internet access will be limited for the first few weeks, but I will share more pictures, observations, and stories as they happen.

For now, do zobaczenia!

**Maintenance Note**

Time stamp changing again. For all posts prior to this that were written in Eastern Standard Time, subtract 6 hours from the stamp listed. This blog is now on Polish time. :)

Disclaimer

The views expressed on these pages are solely belonging to the author and do not reflect the views of the Fulbright Program, the U.S. Department of State or its partner organizations.